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Five Must-Know Sideboarding Tips For Competitive Magic: The Gathering Star City Games

While you are allowed to play more cards in any deck, doing so means that you’ll be less likely to draw the best cards in your deck. You want your deck to be able to get to its game-winning cards as quickly and as consistently as possible. So if you currently play more than 60 and aren’t performing well try and trim down to your best 60 cards. This may seem difficult, but as you build more and more MTG decks over time, you’ll develop an intuition for what mana curves work best for which decks. Over the course of the game, they’ll gain incremental advantages. Then, when the control player has full control over the opponent, they’ll start playing threats of their own and winning the game that way.

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This works best if you’re using reactive decks such as control, or Jund (black/red/green) in the Modern format. As for aggressive decks, hang onto a dead card, and then make a bold attack while your lands are untapped. Your opponent may get the impression that you’re preparing to cast a devastating combat trick. “Grindy” cards think long term, and they may cost your opponent many cards over time or let you draw many more. Huntmaster of the Fells, for example, is a Werewolf that makes 2/2 Wolf tokens and can burn away creatures more than once, as it transforms back and forth. Or, you may play a creature or a token-creating spell that your opponent will need more than one removal spell to deal with.

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That doesn’t sound like a big difference at first glance, but getting your engine online a turn faster can often have an enormous snowball effect in Commander. A good goal for our Muldrotha deck is to consistently cast a ramp spell in the first 3 turns of each game. To calculate this myself I used this hypergeometric calculator. Without mulligans, you’ll need 14 ramp cards in your deck to have an 80% chance of casting at least one in the first 3 turns of the game. That’s not amazing, but adding our free mulligan increases those odds.

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They aren’t small creatures or ways to discard/sacrifice them. However, for a few spots in the deck, it is a massive payoff for what you’ll already be doing. Furthermore, it doesn’t need lots of setup outside of what you’re already doing. So try and find cards that incorporate another strategy or payoff into what you’re already doing. Think of this more as an alternative means of benefiting from what your deck already does than adding a completely new strategy.

Each time I play with this deck list now, the experience is always different. All of the cards in the maybeboard are ones that can be swapped in or out as I please. I’ve shuffled all of my dragon-themed cards together and chosen a bunch at random. I have removed all dragons except Elder Dragons and dragons who lead planes.

You can see the curve peaking up at the 2- and 3-mana points before trailing off as the mana values increase. The higher the mana cost of your curve’s peak, the less consistent your deck will be. Your deck needs to be able to do things early as well as late.

A great Magic player has played those decks, knows how they work, and understands their weaknesses. The best Magic players are able to see three, four, or even five turns ahead. Before they cast a card, they have already considered the ramifications of playing that card now for many turns in advance. This is a rather general tip, but it’s an important one nonetheless. Another rule is to see if your current hand lets you be proactive early on, or works well against your opponent. Also, if you cannot easily cast more than one spell in your opening hand with the lands you see, a mulligan may be in order.

Furthermore, if many of the white spells are higher on the curve as well (or simply less important) you may not need a full 16 there either. You must test to refine your mana from these guidelines. The same concepts for two-color decks apply when you add more colors.

Scryfall makes no guarantee about its price information and recommends you see stores for final prices and details. Deckbuilding is an ongoing process, so you should never assume that the first pile you put together is perfect and always look for new ways to improve it. “Omnath, Locus of All” is the last of what I consider to be my core Commanders. While I may eventually buy and sleeve up other decks, Omnath is the last of three that are ready to play at a moment’s notice. I no longer play “Osgir, the Reconstructor.” In fact, I have steadily stripped this deck for parts.

Understanding that success in MTG Arena is a marathon, not a sprint, especially edh deck for budget players, is crucial. This is because instead of thinking about mainly how the deck you built will succeed, you’ll now be thinking about how to defeat it. Test quite a bit and against several different decks before you jump to conclusions. Test a few and look out for trends because those are what matter. The main thing is to get some reps in and see how things go. In this step, it’s good to play in a casual setting but also not pull too many punches for your deck.

Find cards that can destroy more than one permanent at a time, to make your opponent lose more cards than you did. The refinement stage is very important for the success of your deck. If you’ve had replacement cards in mind for certain things and tested them with the methods above then you may already know what changes to make.

Additionally, MTG Arena has a built-in ranking system that lets you track your progress and see how you stack up against other players. One way to do this is by reading strategy articles and watching gameplay videos. Another important aspect of mana management is the use of counterspells and removal spells. One of the most important concepts in mana management is the mana curve. Players draw seven cards at the beginning of the game and can mulligan once to draw a new hand with one fewer card.

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